South Coast Sailboats
Thank you SalterSail, good
information if you want to go with the ports you have.
The window rubber can be found
at a good auto glass replacement shop. It may have to be ordered
but is still available. It is used in big truck windows. The glass
can be cut too. Mine was shrunk up so bad I took it all out. <Both
sides> Place the new rubber around the window with the opening
at the bottom<center> wrap a string around the whole thing,
set it up to the opening, and pull the string from the inside.
The window and rubber will pop right in with a little help from
WD-40. Mine looks great and don't leak. With brand new rubber,
you can peel it back just a bit from the outside and apply a small
amount of white silicone.
Thank you Stan (rugscrub),
your insight to a painful problem most of us have to deal with.
I like the idea of starting over rather than fixing the existing
I have an SC22 (beloved, eternal
project). My side ports leaked like the proverbial sieve. The
starboard berth was completely rotted and had to be replaced.
I gave up trying to do the silicone thing. The frame, gasket and
window configuration was in too poor a condition to accomplish
a true "fix" that looked half way decent. My solution
was to remove the entire mess and start over. It was really pretty
simple. I made a template by tracing the opening on a piece of
cardboard. After the cardboard was cut to size I then laid it
on some Kraft paper and added approximately 1.5" by dragging
a child's compass around the edge. This created a new template
with suitable overlap for a new one-piece replacement port. Next
I took this to a local glass shop and had them cut the new ports
out of dark tinted Lexan (Polycarbonate). Even though the originals
were Plexiglas, the new ones should be the much stronger Lexan,
due to the loss of strength in the cabin sides when the window
frame is removed. Holes were drilled (slightly oversized) at approx.
4" intervals around the perimeter. I chose 10-24x1 1/4 Stainless
bolts (Ace not Boat U.S.) The holes were drilled in the boat itself
by mounting the new port at about four points and drilling using
the port itself as a guide. The port was removed and little rubber
tabs were placed next to each hole. The purpose of the tabs is
to prevent over-tightening of the bolts. I think these are available
at most boat yards or marine stores. A nice convenience, but not
a necessity. I then applied a silicone caulk around (after masking
of course) the opening on the boat. The product I used was a product
used for sealing windows in office buildings and was not labeled
"marine". It was recommended by a local high-end boatyard.
They said it lasts forever and they have never had to re-do one.
I have been 100% satisfied. The cost was about $12 per tube. By
the way. If you use the dark Lexan, I would suggest using black
sealer. It is much more forgiving than the white stuff. Hope this
info is helpful. Best regards, Stan (sv "Selah" Green
Cove Springs, Fl)